|
PRINT VERSION OF THE TRANSCRIPTION OF THE WILLS DIARY (approx. 20 pages when printed) See also the Introduction for explanation of some conventions used in this 2002 version of the transcript, including: h7 m30. When Wills writes times, he puts 'h' above the hour and 'm' above the minutes. This could not be replicated this exactly in type. New sentences, as far as they can be determined, are indicated by a leading double space. Wills often did not use punctuation or beginning capitals. Wills's crossed-out words and sentences have been reinstated, and this transcript tries to indicate where words were written over others
April 1861 Journal of Trip from Cooper Creek Towards Adelaide
The Advance party of the VEE, consisting of Burke Wills and King (Gray being dead) having returned from Carpentaria on the 21st April 1861 in an exhausted and weak state and finding that the Depôt Party left at Cooper Creek had started for the Darling with their horses and Camels fresh and in good condition, deemed it useless to attempt to overtake them, having only two Camels, both done up, and being so weak themselves as to be unable to walk more than four or five miles a day. Finding also that the provisions left at the Depôt for them would scarcely take them to Meninda, started down Cooper Creek for Adelaide, via Mt Hopeless on the morning of April 23rd 1861, intending to follow as nearly as possible the route taken by Gregory. by so doing they hoped to be able to recruit themselves & the Camels whilst sauntering slowly down the Creek and to have sufficient provisions left to take them comfortably or at least without risk to some station in South Australia.
Their equipment consists of the following articles: Flour 50
(Nora
Cough [---]
from Depot
Having collected together all the odds & ends that seemed likely to be of use to us in addition to provisions left in the plant we started at h9 m15am keeping down the southern bank of the creek; we only went about five miles and camped at h11 m30 on a billibong where the feed was pretty good. we find the change of diet already making a great improvement in our spirits & strength.
The weather is delightful days agreeably warm but the nights very chilly the latter is more noticeable from our deficiency in clothing the Depot party having taken all the reserve things back with them to the Darling.
to Camp No.1
from Camp No
1
As we were about to start this morning some blacks came by from whom we were fortunate enough to get about twelve pounds of fish for a few pieces of straps and some matches &c this is a great treat for us as well as a valuable addition to our rations. We started at h8 m15pm on our way down the Creek the Blacks going in the opposite direction, little thinking that in a few miles they would be able to get lots pieces for nothing better than those they had obtained from us.
to Camp No.2
from Camp No
2
Awoke at five oclock after a most refreshing nights rest. the sky was beautifully clear and the air rather chilly the terrestrial radiation seems to have been considerable and a slight dew had fallen.
We had scarcely finished breakfast when when [sic] our friends the Blacks from whom we obtained the fish, made their appearance with a few more and seemed inclined to go with us and keep up the supply.
We gave them some
sugar with which they were greatly pleased they are by far the most well
behaved blacks we have seen on Cooper Creek. We did not get away from
the Camp until h9 m30am. continuing our course down
the most southern branch of the creek which keeps a general SW course
we passed across the stony point which abutts [sic] on one of largest
waterholes in the creek and camped at h12 m30 about
a mile below the most dangerous part of this risky path. at this latter
place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us, one of
the Camels to Camp No 3
The waterhole at this
Camp is a very fine one being several miles long and on an average about
five chains broad. The water fowl are numerous but rather shy, not nearly
as much so however as those on the creeks between here and Carpentaria
and I am convinced that the From Camp No
3
Last Night was beautifully
calm and comparatively warm although the sky was very clear. We loaded
the Camels by moonlight this morning and started at a quarter to six.
Striking off to the south of the Creek we soon got on a native path which
leaves the creek just below the stony ground and takes a course nearly
to Camp No 4
From Camp No
4
First part of night clear with a light breeze from South temperature at midnight 10 deg (Reaumur) towards morning there were a few Cir Cum cloud passing over from NE to SW but they disappeared before day light at h5am the tempre was 7.5 degs (Reaumur).
We started at six oclock and following the native path which at about a mile from our Camp takes a southerly direction we soon came to the high sandy alluvial deposit which seperates [sic] the Creek at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the path keeping well to the south of the Creek in order that we might shift in a branch of it that took a southerly direction. At h9 m20 we came up on ((the Creek)) again where it runs due south and halted for breakfast at fine waterhole with fine fresh feed for the Camels. Here we remained until noon when we moved on again and camped at one oclock, on a general course having been throughout the morning S W 8 miles. The weather is most agreeable & pleasant nothing could be more favorable for us up to the present time. The temperature [in?] the shade at h10 30am was 17.5 (Reaumer) [sic] with a light breeze from south and a few small cir Cum clouds towards the North.
I greatly feel the want of more instruments the only things I have left being my watch, prism [?] Compass, pocket compass, and one thermometer (Reaumur)
To Camp No 5
From Camp No
5
Morning fine and Calm but rather chilly started at h4 m45am following down the bed of the Creek in a Westerly direction by moonlight. Our stage was however very short for about a mile one of the camels ((Landa)) got bogged by the side of a waterhole, and although we tried every means in our power we found it impossible to get him out. All the ground beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand through which the beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes or timber fairly beneath him, and being of a very sluggish stupid nature he could never be got to make sufficiently strenuous efforts towards extricating himself. in the evening, as a last chance we let the water in from the creek so as to bouy [sic] him up and at the same time soften the ground about his legs but it was of no avail. The Brute lay quietly in it as if he quite enjoyed his position.
To Camp No 6
Camp No
6
Finding Landa still in the hole we made a few attempts at extricating him and then shot him, and after breakfast commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at for jerking
Tuesday April 30th 1861
Remained here to day for the purpose of drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very favorable
Time 21.0 Thermometers 70.0
The tempre of air varied during the night from 13.0 to 14.0 deg Reamur the sky being sometimes covered with cir str clouds moving rapidly from west to East the lower portion of the atmosphere was perfectly calm all night. A few musqu[itoes] made their appearance but were not very troublesome.
From Camp No 6
Wednesday May 1st 1861
Started at h8 m40 having loaded our only Camel, Rajah with the most necessary and useful articles, and packed up a small swag each of bedding and clothing for our own shoulders we kept on the right bank of the Creek for about a mile and then crossed over, at a Native Camp, to the left where we got on a path running due West, the Creek having turned to the North following the path we crossed an open plane [sic], and then [these?]/ [three?] sand ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us running nearly South again, the path took us to the south- [new line] ernmost point of the bend in a distance of about two and a half miles from where we had crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles as it cannot be less than six miles around by the creek.
to Camp No 7
Camp No
7
Breakfasted by moonlight and started at h6 m30. following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly direction we came at a distance of six miles on a lot of natives who were camped in the bed of the creek they seemed to have just breakfasted and were most liberal in the presentations of fish and cake we could only return the compliments by some fish hooks & sugar. About a mile further on we came to a seperation [sic] of the Creek, where what looked like the main branch turned towards the South this channel we followed not however without some misgivings as to its character which were soon increased by the small and unfavorable appearance that the creek assumed. on our continuing along it a little further it began to improve and widened out with fine water holes of considerable depth, the banks were very steep and a belt of scrub lined it on either side this made it very inconvenient for travelling especially as the bed of the creek was full of water for considerable distances. At h11.0am we halted until h1 m30pm and then moved on again then taking ((to)) a SSW course for about two miles when at the end of a very long waterhole it breaks into billibongs which continue splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy soil of a box forest. Seeing little chance of water ahead we turned back to the end of the long water-hole and camped for the night. On our way back Rajah showed signs of being done up, he had been trembling greatly all the morning, on this account his load was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds by the doing away with the Sugar, Ginger, Tea, Coca and two or three tin plates.
Last night was fine & clear and unusually cold the temperature at half past Nine pm was 10.0 and at h4 m30 6.3 deg, a cool south- [new line] erly breeze sprung up again in the morning and blew at times throughout the day pretty stiffly the sky being clear and the tempre agreeable.
To Camp No.8
Camp No
8
Started at h7 am striking off in a northerly direction for the Main Creek. At a mile and a half came to a branch which [left unfinished]
To Camp No.9
Junction. – from Camp
No 9
Night & morning
very cold. Sky clear, almost calm, occasionally a light breath of air
from South. Rajah appears to feel the cold very much he was so stiff
this morning as to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started
to return down the Creek at 6 45 and halted for breakfast at h9
am at the same spot as we breakfasted at yesterday, proceeding from there
down the Creek we soon found a repetition of the features that were exhibited
by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a half we came to the
last water hole and below that the the [sic] channel became more sandy
& shallow and continued to send off billibongs to the south &
West slightly changing its course each time until it disappeared altogether
in a NWly direction leaving King with the Camel we we [sic]
went on a mile or two to see if we
could find water and being unsuccessful we were obliged to return to
Camp No 10
Started by myself to reconnoitre the country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr Burke & King with the Camel at Camp 10. travelled SW by S for two hours following the course of the most southerly billibongs found the earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up and the box timber gradually disappearing. changed course west for a high sand ridge which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in the same direction to one still higher, obtained from it a good view of the surrounding country. To the North were the extensive box forests bounding the Creek on either side. to the East Earthy plains intersected by watercourses and lines of timber and bounded in the distance by sand ridges. To the south the projection of the sand ridges partially intercepted the view the rest was composed of earthy plains apparently clothed with chrysanthemums, To the west-ward another but smaller plain was bounded also by high sandridges running nearly parallel with the one on which I was standing.
This dreary prospect offering no encouragement for one to proceed I returned to Camp 10 by a more direct and better route than I had come passing over some good saltbush land which borders on the billibongs to the westward.
Nothing could be finer than the weather has been for the last three weeks. the winds have generally been from the South, Blowing freshly throughout the day and then dying away in the evening sometimes a stiff breeze has continued to blow during the night, which has then felt unusually cold but the night [sic] have generally been calm and cloudless.
To day there is a light breeze from NNE and a few wind [t---] towards the South. The upper current has generally been from Westwards
From Camp No 10 Monday May 6th 1861 Back to “.9
Moved up the creek again to Camp No 9 at the Junction to breakfast and remained the day there.
The present state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much the rations are rapidly diminishing our clothing, especially the boots are all going to pieces and we have not the materials for repairing them properly. The Camel is completely done up and can scarcely get along, although he has the best of feed and is resting half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live like the blacks for a few months
Last night was clear & calm but not as cold as the nights have usually been.
the wind which blew lightly during the morning from the northward died away about noon and a few Cir Cum clouds made their appearance gradually collecting until they formed into heavy Cum Strat moving slowly from N to South In the evening the sky cleared, but clouded over again towards morning with small cir Cum moving slowly from NW to SE
Camp No.9
Breakfasted at daylight but when about to start found that the Camel would not rise even without any load on his back. after making every attempt to get him up we were obliged to leave him to himself.
Mr Burke and I started down the Creek to reconnoitre, At about eleven miles we came to some Blacks fishing, they gave us some half a dozen fish each for luncheon and intimated that if we would go to their Camp we should have some more and some bread. I tore in two a piece of Mackintosh stuff that I had and Mr.B. gave one piece and I the other, we then went on to their Camp about three Miles further. they had caught a considerable quantity of fish but most of them were small. I noticed three different kinds. A small one that they call Cupi, five to six inches long and not broader than an eel. the common ones with large coarse scales termed Peru and a delicious fish some of which run from a pound to two pounds weight the Natives call them Cawitchi.
On our arrival at the Camp they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon afterwards brought a lot of fish & bread which they call Nardu. the lighting a fire with matches greatly delights them but they do not care about having them. in the evening various members of the tribe came down with lumps of Nardu and handfuls of fish until we were positively unable to eat any more. They also gave us some stuff they call Bedgery or Pedgery. it has a highly intoxicating effect when chewed even in small quantities it appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some shrub.
Wednesday
May 8th Left the Blacks Camp at h7 m30 Mr.Burke returning to the Junction whilst I proceeded to trace down the Creek. this I found a shorter task than I had expected for it soon showed signs of running out and at the same time kept considerably to the north of West. there were several fine waterholes within about four miles of the Camp I had left but not a drop all the way beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek turned greatly towards the North I returned to the Blacks’ encampment and as I was about to pass they invited me to stay so I did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before being on this occasion offered a share of a gunnya and supplied with plenty of fish and Nardu, as well as a couple of nice fat rats, the latter found most delicious, They were baked in the skins.
[at bottom of page]
Last Night was Clear & calm but unusually warm we slept by a fire just in front of the Blacks Camp. they were very attentive in bringing us fire wood and keeping the fire up during the night.
Thursday, May 9th 1861
Parted from my friends the Blacks at h7 m30 and started for Camp No 9
Camp No
9
Mr Burke & King employed in jerking the Camels flesh whilst I went out to look for the Nardu seed for making bread; in this I was unsuccessful not being able to find a single tree of it in the neighborhood of the Camp. I however tried boiling the large kind of bean which the Blacks call Padlu, they boil easily and when shelled are very sweet much resembling in taste the french Chestnut they are to be had in large quantities nearly every-where.
Camp
No 9
To day Mr.Burke & King started down the creek for the Blacks camp determined to ascertain all particulars about the Nardu I have now my turn at the meat jerking, and must devise some means for trapping the birds & rats. what a pleasant prospect, after our dashing trip to Carpentaria, having to hang about Cooper Creek living like the Blacks
Sunday May
12th [no year=sic] Mr. Burke & King returned this morning having been unsuccessful in their search for the Blacks who it seems have moved over to the other branch of the Creek.
Decided on moving out on the main Creek to morrow and then trying to find the natives up the creek.
Monday May 13th 1861
Shifted some of the things and brought them back again, Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain here with them for a few days so as to eat the remains of the fresh meat whilst the others went in search of the Blacks and Nardu
Tuesday May 14th 1861
Mr Burke & King gone up the Creek to look for Blacks with four days provisions. Self employed in preparing for a final start on their return.
This evening Mr B. & K returned having been some considerable distance up the Creek & found no blacks, it is now settled that we plant the things and all start together the day after tomorrow
The weather continues very fine the nights calm clear & cold and the days clear with a breeze generally from South but to day from East for a change, this makes the first part of the day rather cold. when clouds appear they invariably move from West to East.
Camp
No 9
Planting the things and preparing to leave the Creek for Mt Hopeless
Thursday 16th 1861
having completed our planting &c started up the creek to the second ((blacks)) camp, a distance of about eight miles; finding our loads rather too heavy we made a small plant here of such articles as could best be spared.
Night as usual Calm Clear & Cold Temperature of Air just before sunrise 4.15 Reaumer [sic] or 42.0 Far.
About 8am an easterly breeze sprang up again and lasted throughout the day Early in the evening a thin Cir Ch veil came up from South causing a halo to form around the moon. the stratification of the clouds was perpendicular to their direction & they passed over with great rapidity.
Nardu Friday 17th May 1861
Started this morning on a blacks path leaving the creek on our left our intention being to keep a S Ely direction until we should cut some likely looking creek and then to follow it down. on approaching the foot of the first sandhill, King caught sight in the flat of some Nardue seeds, and we soon found that the flat was covered with them, this discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings for we considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a position to support ourselves even if we were destined to remain on the creek; & wait for assistance from Town Crossing some sand ridges which run N & S, we struck into a creek which runs out of Cooper Cr, and followed it down, at about five miles we came to a large water hole beyond which the watercourse runs out on extensive flats and earthy plainins[sic].
Calm night, sky cleared towards morning and it became very cold. A slight easterly breeze sprung up at sunrise but soon died away again. The Sky again became overcast and remained so throughout the day. There was occasionally a light breeze from South but during the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Camp No
11
(No entry except the following meteorological entry on an opposite page, which may probably refer to this date.)
Calm night sky sometimes clear & sometimes partially overcast with veil clouds
Monday May 20th 1861 [No entry beyond this citation of date]
Started with King to celebrate the Queens birthday by fetching from Nardu Creeek [sic] what is now to us the staff of life returned at a little after two pm with a fair supply: but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome process than could be desired.
Whilst picking the seed about eleven oclock am both of us heard distinctly the noise of an explosion as of a gun at some considerable distance We supposed it to have been a shot fired by Mr Burke but on returning to the Camp found that he had not fired nor had heard the noise.
The Sky was partially overcast with high Cum Ctr [sic] Clouds, and a light breeze blew from the East, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm in any direction.
Sunday May 26th [No entry beyond this citation of date]
Monday May 27th 1861 Nottairu Tilta[?]
[NB This entry is written in the form of two columns]
Started up the Creek this Morning, for the Depôt in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of affairs here. on reaching the sand hills below where Landa was bogged I passed some blacks on a flat collecting Nardu seed. Never saw such an abundance of the seed before the ground in some parts was quite black with it. there were only two or three gins and children and they directed me on as if to their camp in the direction I was before going. but I had not gone far over the first sandhill when I was overtaken by about twenty blacks bent on taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of Nardu and fish on my going with them one carried the shovel and another insisted on taking my swag in such a friendly manner that I could not refuse them
[on the right hand side of this page is a list of Aboriginal words, as follows]
Mourra
They were greatly amused with the various little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with abundance of Nardu & Fish and one of the old Men Pokos[?]/Pokoro[?] Tinamau[?] /Tinnamaira[?] shared his gunnya with me……….The night was very cold but by the help of several fires…..[The entry suddenly stops]
Tuesday May 28th 1861
Left the Blacks Camp and proceeding up the Creek, obtained some mussels near where Landa died and halted for breakfast. still feel very unwell from the effects of the constipation of the bowels the stools are exceedingly painful. After breakfast travelled on to our third Camp coming down Very Blown[?]
[half way through the above page is the drawing of a fish super- or sub-imposed on the writing]
Wednesday
29th Started at 7 oclock
and went on to the duck holes where we breakfasted coming down, halted
there at h9 m30 for a feed and then moved on. At
the stones saw a lot of crows quarelling [sic] about something near the
water, found it to be a large fish of which they had eaten a considerable
portion. finding it quite fresh & good I decided the quarrel by taking
it with me. it proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty
supper of Nardu porridge. this evening I camped very comfortably in a
mia mia about eleven miles from the Depôt. The night was very cold although not entirely cloudless.
A brisk Easterly breeze sprung up in the morning and blew freshly all day. in the evening the sky clouded in and there were one or two slight showers but nothing to wet the ground
Thursday May 30th 1861
Reached the Depot this morning at 11 oclock, no traces of any one except blacks having been here since we left.
Deposited some journals and a notice of our present condition. Started back in the afternoon & camped at the first water hole.
Last Night being cloudy was unusually warm and pleasant
Friday May 31st 1861
Decamped at h7
m.30 am having first breakfasted,
Night clear and very cold, no wind. towards Morning sky became slightly overcast with cirro Strat clouds.
Saturday June 1st 1861
Started at h7 m45 am passed the Duckholes at h10 am and my second camp up at h2 pm having rested in the meantime about m45 minutes. thought to have reached the Blacks Camp or at least where Landa was bogged but found myself altogether too weak and exhausted in fact had extreme difficulty in getting across the numerous little gullies and was at last obliged to camp from sheer fatigue
Night alternately clear & cloudy with occasional showers.
Sunday June 2nd 1861
Started at half past six thinking to breakfast at the Blacks Camp below Landa grave found myself very much fagged and did not arrive at their Camp until h10 am & then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast the Camp being deserted.
Having rested a while and eaten a few fish bones I moved down the creek hoping by a late march to be able to reach our own camp, but I soon found from my extreme weakness that that would be out of the question.
A certain amount of good luck however still stuck to me for on going along by a large water hole I was so fortunate as to find a large fish about a pound & half in weight which was just being choked by another which it had tried to swallow but which had stuck in its throat. I soon had a fire lit and both of the fish cooked and eaten. the large one was in good condition.
Moving on again after my late breakfast I passed camp No LXVII of the Journey to Carpentaria and camped for the night under some polygonum bushes.
Monday June 3rd 1861
Started at seven oclock and keeping on the south bank of the creek was rather encouraged at about three miles by [the] sound of numerous crows a head presently fancied could see smoke and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by hearing a cooey from Pitchery who stood on the opposite bank and directed me around the lower end of the waterhole continually repeating his assurance of abundance of fish & bread.
having with some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that led to the Camp I was conducted by the Chief to a fire where a large pile of fish were just been cooked in the most approved style. these I imagined to be for the general consumption of the half a dozen natives gathered around but it turned out that they had already had their breakfast I was expected to dispose of this lot a task which to my own astonishment I soon accomplished keeping two or three blacks pretty steadily at work extracting the bones for me. The fish being disposed of next came a supply of Nardu Cake A[sic] water until I was so full as to be unable to eat any more when Pitchery allowing me a short time to recover myself fetched a large bowl of the raw Nardu flour mixed to a thin paste a most insinuating article and one that they appear to esteem a great delicacy. I was then invited stop the night there, but this I declined and proceeded on my way home.
Tuesday June 4th 1861
Started for the Blacks camp intending to test the practicability of living with them and to see what I could learn as to their ways & manners
Wednesday June 5th 1861
Remained with the Blacks
Light rain during the greater part of the night and more or less throughout the day in showers Wind blowing in squalls from South
Thursday June 6th 1861
Returned to our own
Camp. found that Mr Burke & King had been well supplied
with fish by the Blacks.
Friday June 7th 1861
Started in the afternoon for the Blacks Camp with such things as we could take, found ourselves all very weak inspite [sic] of the abundant supply of fish that we have lately had. I myself could scarcely get along although carrying the lightest swag only about thirty pounds.
found that the Blacks had decamped so determined on proceeding to morrow up to the next camp near the Nardu field
Saturday June 8th 1861
With the greatest fatigue & difficulty we reached the Nardu Camp. No Blacks greatly to our disappointment. took possession of their best Mia Mia and rested for the remainder of the day.
[Super- or sub-imposed on the above page is a design made with a compass. It covers part of the last sentence and the blank space following]
Sunday June 9th 1861
King and I proceeded to collect Nardu leaving Mr Burke at home
[there are some scribbles on the blank part of this page].
Monday June 10th 1861
Mr. Burke & King collecting Nardu self at home too weak to go out was fortunate enough to shoot a crow
[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period] The Night was alternately cloudy & clear the clouds moving from NE to SW. Shortly before day break a few light drops of rain fell the sky then cleared and a beautiful sunrise was succeeded by a fine cool morning the sky being partially covered with Cirro Str & Cir Cum clouds. A light breeze sprang up in East at 7am & shifted to N & N by W with a force of (5) soon after noon it moved to West blowing lightly.
Date: March
18th
At 2pm it went back and [---] to East and a smart squall came on accompanied by a heavy shower it only lasted however for half an hour but the sky remained cloudy and almost [fine?] felt sultry for the rest of the afternoon.
Tuesday June 11th 1861
King out for Nardu. Mr. Burke up the Creek to look for the Blacks.
[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Beautiful day rather warm sky cloudy in the afternoon threatening thunderstorms but clouds passed without breaking.
Date: March
17th Lat. 21o
32 30
Wednesday June 12th 1861
King out collecting Nardu Mr. Burke and I at home pounding & cleaning. I still feel myself if anything weaker in the legs altho the nardu appears to be more thoroughly digested. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: March
16th
Thursday June 13th 1861
Last Night the Sky was pretty clear and the air rather cold but nearly calm. A few Cir Str hung about the NE horizon during the first part of the night.
Mr. Burke & King out for Nardu, self weaker than ever scarcely able to go to the Waterhole for water.
Towards afternoon Cir Cum & Cir Str. began to appear moving northward scarcely any wind all day
[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period] Very heavy dew all night no wind
Date: March
15th
Friday June 14th 1861
Night alternately Clear & Cloudy Cir Cum. & Cum Str moving Northwards No wind beautifully mild for the time of year. in the morning some heavy clouds on the horizon.
King out for Nardu,
brought in a good supply Mr Burke & I at home pounding
and cleaning seed. I feel weaker than ever and both Mr. B.
& King are beginning to feel very unsteady in the legs [Here follow some
meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: March
14th
Scratchleys Creek
Saturday June 15th 1861
Night clear calm & cold Morning very fine with a light breath of air from NE. King out for Nardu brought in a fine supply Mr Burke and I pounding & cleaning; he finds himself getting very weak and I am not a bit stronger.
I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less nardu in hopes that it may induce some change in the system. I have never yet recovered from the effects of the constipation and the passage of the stools is always exceedingly painful [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Set into rain steadily during the night and continued throughout the greater portion of the day. in the afternoon it rained very heavily until about five pm flooding all the creeks and compelling us to shift higher up amongst the rocks
Date: March
15th
Sunday June 16th 1861
Wind shifted to North clouds moving from West to East: Thunder audible two or three times to the Southward Sky becoming densely overcast with an occasional shower about 9am.
We finished up the remains of Rajah yesterday for dinner; King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning.
the rain kept all
hands in pounding & cleaning seed during the morning. The weather
cleared up towards the middle
[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period] Fine day
Date: March
12th
Monday June 17th 1861
Night very boisterous & Stormy Northerly wind blowing in squalls & heavy showers of rain with thunder in the North & West heavy clouds moving rapidly from North to South. gradually clearing up during the morning the wind continuing squally during the day, from West & NW. King out in the afternoon for nardu [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: March
11 Just below King’s Gap
Tuesday June 18th 1861
Exceedingly cold night. Sky clear, slight breeze very chilly and changeable, very heavy dew. After Sunrise Cir Str clouds began to pass over from West to East gradually becoming more dense and assuming the form of Cum Str
The sky cleared and it became warmer towards noon. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Having been travelling along the bed of the Creek which is bounded on each side by rocky hills I have been able to say positively what the direction of the wind has been but whenever I was able to [note?] it, it seemed to be from between S & SE.
Date: March
10th
Wednesday June 19th 1861
Night Calm, sky during first part overcast with Cir Cum clouds, most of which cleared ((Away)) towards morning leaving the air much colder but the sky remained more or less hazy all night and it was not nearly as cold as last night.
About 8 oclock a strong southerly wind sprung up which enabled King to blow the dust out out [sic] of our nardue seed but made me too too [sic] weak to render him any assistance. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
The Southerly breeze sprung up again at 7am as before and in the afternoon shifted a little to Eastward bringing up Nimbous [sic] looking clouds, a few drops of rain fell. towards night the wind rather increased in fore continuing to blow until near morning
Date: March
9th
Thursday June 20th 1861
Night and morning very cold sky clear. I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation.
King gone out for Nardu Mr Burke at home pounding seed, he finds himself getting very weak in the legs, King holds out by far the best the foods seems to agree with him pretty well.
Finding the Sun come out pretty warm towards Noon, I took a sponging all over but it seemed to do little good beyond the cleaning effects for my weakness is great that I could not do it with proper expedition.
I cannot understand this Nardu at all it certainly will not agree with me in any form we are now reduced to it alone and we manage to get from four to five pounds per day between us. the stools it causes are enormous and seem greatly to exceed the quantity of bread consumed and is very slightly altered in appearance from what it was when eaten. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Southerly breeze similar to yesterday during the morning shifted in afternoon to SE bringing up vapour Cir Cum. Thunder was repeatedly audible to windward and at 4 30pm a smart shower and heavy squall passed over us. There were several slight showers during the night and the transit of a cloud was invariably marked by a squall from SE.
Date: March
8th Lat: 200.30.15
Friday June 21st 1861
Last Night was ((
It is a great consolation at least in this position of ours to know that we we [sic] have done all we could and that our deaths will rather be the result of the mismanagement of others than of any rash acts of our own. had we been come to grief elsewhere we could only have blamed ourselves but here we are returned to Cooper Creek where we had every reason to look for provisions & clothing, and yet we have to die of starvation in spite of the explicit instructions given by Mr. Burke “That the Depôt party should await our return, and the strong recommendation to the Committee that we should be followed up by a party from Mininda.”
About Noon a change of wind took place and it blew almost as hard from the west as it was previously from the NE a few cir Cum continued to pass over towards East. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Smart dry breeze from South commencing about 7am continued throughout the day until sunset this was succeeded by a calm clear night during which the temperature fell very low compared with what we have been accustomed
Date: March
7th Lat. South 20 22
to at h5 mam30 the thermometer registered 65.0 degs, our nocturnal temperatures have seldom been below 80 degs on this side of the ranges.
Saturday June 22nd 1861
Night cloudy and warm every appearance of rain; thunder once or twice during the night clouds moving in an easterly direction; lower atmosphere perfectly calm. there were a few drops of rain during the night and in the morning about h9am there was every prospect of more rain until towards noon when the sky cleared up for a time
Mr Burke & King out for Nardue the former returned much fatigued I am so weak to day as to be unable to get on my feet [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: March
6th Lat. 20 15
20
Have reason to think that the Barometer has been injured by a slight fall that it had this evening.
Sunday June 23rd 1861
All hands at home. I am so weak as to be incapable of crawling out of the Mia Mia. King holds out well but Mr. Burke finds himself weaker every day
[super- or sub- imposed on this page is a drawing of a fish] [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: March
4th
Monday June 24th 1861
A Fearful night. At about an hour before sunset a Southerly gale sprung up and continued throughout the greater portion of the night the cold was intense and it seemed as if one would be completely shrivelled up towards morning it fortunately lulled a little but a strong cold breeze continued till near sunset after which it became perfectly calm.
King went out for Nardu in spite of the wind and came in with a good load but he himself terribly cut up he says that he can no longer keep up the work & as he & Mr. Burke are both getting rapidly weaker we have but a slight chance of anything but starvation unless we can get hold of some blacks. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: February
28th Lat:
19o 24’ Camp of the three Crows No XIII R
Tuesday June 23rd [sic] 1861
Night calm clear & intensely cold especially towards morning. near daybreak King reported seeing a moon in the east with a haze of light stretching up from it. he declared it to be quite as large as the moon and not dim at the edges I am so weak that any attempt to get a sight of it was out of the question; but I think it must have been Venus in the Zodiacal light that he saw, with a corona around her
Mr Burke & King remain at home cleaning & pounding seed; they both getting weaker every day, the Cold plays the deuce with us from the small amount of clothing we have my wardrobe consists of a wide awake, a merino shirt, a regatta shirt without sleeves, the remains of a pair of flannel trousers, two pairs of socks in rags, and a waistcoat of which I have managed to keep the pockets together. the others are no better off. besides these we have between us for bedding two small camel-pads, some horse hair two or three little bits of a rug, & pieces of oil cloth saved from the fire.
The day turned out nice and warm. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Night beautifully clear & pleasant travelling until h12 .m10. then camped and took a latitude observation & Lunar distance of Jupiter
Date:
February 27th Lat. 19o
14’ South
Wednesday June 24th [sic] 1861
Calm night, sky overcast with hazy Cum strat clouds. An easterly breeze sprung up towards morning making the air much colder, after sunrise there were indications of a clearing up of the sky but it soon clouded in again, the upper current continuing to move in an easterly direction, whilst a breeze from the E and NE blew pretty regularly throughout the day. Mr Burke & King are preparing to go up the creek in search of the blacks, they will leave me some nardu, wood & water with which I must do the best I can until they return. I think this is almost our only chance I feel myself if anything rather better, but I cannot say stronger, the nardu is beginning to agree better with me. but without some change I see little chance for any of us. They have both shown great hesitation and reluctance with regard to leaving me and have repeatedly desired my candid opinion in the matter. I could only repeat however that I considered it our only chance for I could not last long on the nardue, even if a supply could be kept up. [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: February
26th
Lat:
Time: 6.00 A stiff breeze sprung up in the evening from SSE it had a good deal of the feeling of a mild hot wind, the atmosphere was rather sultry and thunder clouds were hanging about in [the?] east discharging flashes of sheet lightning every two or three minutes. about ten oclock the sky became clearer and the air [---] and that night turned out very cool & [---]
Thursday June 25th [sic] 1861
Cloudy, calm &
comparatively warm night clouds almost stationary, [Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period]
Date: February
25th Lat: 180 59 30
Friday, 26th [sic] June, 1861
Clear cold night,
slight breeze from the East day beautifully warm and pleasant. Mr
Burke suffers greatly from the cold & is getting extremely weak he
& King start to-((
W.J. Wills
[At top of page are six or seven lines not previously transcribed and most words are indecipherable. Some words are]:
It will be seen that
in the light[?]…
W.J.W.]
[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to relate to another period] Date: February
26th
Postscript by original transcriber
In the last four days it will be observed that the dates are wrongly stated. Doubtless the melancholy situation of the party had in some degree affected the writer. The journal was kept in a note book which was completely filled up, the signature being attached at the bottom of the last page. The journal closes on the 27th June, and about four days afterwards King having left Burke dead on the route, returned to the hut and found that Wills also had expired |