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In 1890, the bustle—after reaching up to half a metre—was discarded in favour of gored skirts and flowing lines. The focus moved from the rear to the bust and the ideal shape became the hourglass. As any hint of the cleavage was thought vulgar, beneath the high-necked blouse was a 'mono' bosom. In order to keep attention focussed on the bust, sleeves were tight, extending over the hands while the ballooning bodices were pouched and heavily hung with frills, flounces and cascades of lace. At the end of the 1890s waistlines rose at the back to give an effect dubbed the 'kangaroo stance' in London.

By 1908 a new style of corset was required with the introduction of Paul Poiret's 'natural figure', one that started below the bust and reached almost to the knees, minimising rather than enhancing curves. It ended the fashion for boned collars and layers of petticoats and, after it was shortened, ladies could almost sit down with perfect ease.

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